There’s little question about America’s collective sweet tooth. Many of us are still developing our taste for the other end of the spectrum.

“I think bitterness is the last frontier of the American palate,” said Paul Mincarelli, co-owner of the Italian restaurant Cafe Campli on Harford Road.

But after a summer filled with bitter-forward cocktails like the paper plane, negroni and Aperol spritz, tastes are seemingly expanding.

Now, amaro, the Italian herbal liqueur, is the next bitter drink having its mainstream moment, cementing its permanence behind the bar. Global sales for traditional brands like Campari, Aperol and Ramazzotti have been on the rise in recent years, and the relatively nascent U.S. amaro category continues to expand — with Baltimore contributing along the way.

Most bars have at least one option (like Fernet-Branca, a favorite of bartenders) but plenty are adding more, particularly as more drinkers seek out lower alcoholic beverages that still pack a punch of flavor.

So, in the spirit of sampling, here’s a flight of information for those curious about amaro.

Amaro can be a love or hate thing — and that’s good

While amaro has been called “the drink of 2024,” its commercial success dates back further — it experienced a popularity boom in the 19th century, when amaro was touted for its therapeutic benefits.

It is typically made from macerating herbs, roots, citrus or other earthy ingredients in alcohol, which often leads to a complex, bittersweet flavor.

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For Mincarelli, who first fell in love with amaro while studying abroad in Rome, building Cafe Campli’s assorted collection is a passion project. He believes the restaurant boasts the area’s widest selection with more than 40 varieties — from the soft, amber-colored Amaro Nonino to the powerful Amaro di Angostura.

“I like the variety. I like that there are some amari out there that I absolutely hate,” he said. “You’re never going to find two that are similar.”

Find what works for you

Most think of amaro as a digestif, an after-dinner elixir to help settle the stomach.

But these days, the drink — which works on ice or at room temperature — is consumed at all hours.

Flavor-wise, Mincarelli opts for a more bitter amaro before eating (such as Cynar, made with artichoke) and then sweeter after, to complement dessert or an espresso.

Given its alcohol content is less than most spirits, amaro (usually in the 16% to 35% range) also appeals to drinkers looking to avoid excess (and killer hangovers).

“I’m not trying to have a tequila every single night I work,” said Coleman Smat, Cafe Campli’s lead bartender, of his post-shift drink of choice. “It’s a great kind of middle ground.”

Of course, amaro is not for everyone. That comes with the territory when flavors like licorice, cardamom, menthol and juniper are involved. But if you find yourself appreciating the complexities, you can feel your palate expand in real time.

Baltimore is an amaro playground

American amaro has been on the rise, too, and Baltimore Spirits Co. has sold its own versions made with less conventional flavors since 2017, including Szechuan peppercorn, chamomile and coffee.

You might expect coffee to be their most popular amaro, but co-owner Max Lents said the aromatic Szechuan product is the best seller.

“It’s something for the curious, and people of all kinds of persuasions are always incredibly surprised by it and really taken with it,” Lents said. “I don’t think there’s anything else like it on the market.”

Lents shouted out Baltimore’s bartending and cocktail scene for helping his appreciation of amaro grow — particularly W.C. Harlan, the Remington speakeasy whose amaro program has educated imbibers since opening in 2013.

“If there’s a customer looking for a very special amaro experience, I am not sure anyone has focused on it better than the OG, W.C. Harlan,” he said. “So I think that’s an awesome place to start.”

Look around, and you’ll see opportunities to explore amaro all over, from curated bar programs at Little Donna’s and Verde to Sagamore Spirit’s rye distillate-based amaro, which launched in 2023. Of Love & Regret sells the Pathfinder, a nonalcoholic hemp-based liquid that mimics amaro, too, while home bartenders can find a wide selection of amaro at the Wine Source in Hampden.

Start with this simple twist on a classic

As with anything new, the introduction matters. The “biggest disservice” bartenders can do with amaro, Verde’s Evan Bosco said, is to throw a rookie into the deep(ly bitter) end.

“There’s 20% of the population that’s going to love that minty abrasiveness, and then 80% are going to be like, ‘I guess amaro’s not for me,’” Bosco said.

Let’s get off on a better, more accessible foot with a drink that offers some familiarity: the Adult Dr. Pepper, a favorite among the Cafe Campli staff. All you need is Amaro Ramazzotti and sparkling water over ice.

“It’s not too strong,” Smat said. “It’s a good balance between sweet and bitter.”

Whatever route you take, there’s probably an amaro or cocktail out there that you’ll find appealing, or at least interesting, and that can open many more doors. So be open to experimentation, Mincarelli said.

“Don’t let bitter intimidate you,” he said. “Don’t let the variety and complexity intimidate you. … You can take that next step. Once you do, you’ll be happy about it.”

Cafe Campli’s Adult Dr. Pepper

• Collins glass with ice
• 2 ounces of Amaro Ramazzotti
• 4 ounces of sparkling water
• Orange peel garnish