Biscuit sandwiches were made for winter. They essentially take all the favorites on a morning platter and combine them into satisfying Southern-style bites.
But breakfast and brunch have become an afterthought in post-COVID lockdown Baltimore, so finding a solid option can be somewhat challenging.
Fortunately, you’re in luck. I combed through Baltimore in search of the perfect cold-weather meal.
Warning: Don’t read this article or visit any of the restaurants featured in this article if you’re worried about fitting in your holiday party dress or New Year’s Eve ensemble. While my waistline is now screaming for a reprieve, sampling these morning marvels was pretty gratifying.
Rize + Rest Cafe
3100 E. Baltimore St., Patterson Park, https://www.rizerestcafe.com/
Randall Matthews opened nearly two dozen restaurants as a corporate executive chef for restaurateur Michael Mina. Most recently, he worked as a corporate chef for Ada’s on the River, a waterfront restaurant in Alexandria, Virginia.
Matthews came back to Baltimore last year to launch his Patterson Park concept. He previously helped to open the now-shuttered Wit & Wisdom at The Four Seasons Baltimore in 2011.
Matthews tapped into a family recipe to create his Nana’s Famous biscuit, which is named for his grandmother’s mother and is the base for his breakfast sandwich offerings at Rize + Rest Cafe.
Quick backstory: Matthews held onto this family recipe, which was first scribbled on a piece of paper by his grandmother’s mother. He vowed to “perfect” the recipe as a professional chef. He said the famous part of the name comes from speaking the biscuit “into existence.”
“It has always been my duty to make sure everyone in America had to try this biscuit,” he said.
I ordered the thick-cut bacon, fluffy scrambled egg and cheese biscuit ($11) and the Famous Chicken biscuit ($13), which features a tender chicken breast marinated in a honey chili. The flaky, buttery biscuits make the sandwich. They lived up to the hype and are among the best I had during my tasting tour.
Mobtown Ballroom & Café
30 W. North Ave., Station North, https://www.mobtownballroom.com/
Mobtown Ballroom & Cafe has a customizable biscuit sandwich with egg and a choice of Muenster, cheddar, or Cooper’s American cheese. ($9) And you can add bacon for $1 more, or sausage for $2.
The lack of options is actually refreshing. You can focus simply on the biscuit sandwich. And thank God. This contender packs a punch.
The diamond-shaped biscuit is buttery, flaky and beautifully golden. The egg is fluffy and light, yet substantial. And the meat adds enough salt for a balanced bite.
Order the apple rosemary jelly for additional flavor.
Golden West Café
1105 W. 36th St., Hampden, https://www.goldenwestcafe.com/
Known for its extensive vegan menu and craft cocktails, I was pleasantly surprised by the Hampden eatery’s build-your-own biscuit sandwich ($10).
First, let’s start with the biscuit, as big around as a softball, and perfectly cooked and fluffy. The scrambled egg is loaded with a healthy amount of melted cheddar cheese. The surprise star is the choice of meat. The twice-baked ham comes in shredded strips and provides the perfect saltiness. A creamy, scrumptious gravy accompanies this dish, as do perfectly seasoned, crispy hash browns.
Looking for a sweeter option? Get the candied bacon, instead of ham. It has a hint of peppery heat for an unexpected treat.
Spoons
24 E. Cross St., Federal Hill, https://www.spoonsbaltimore.com/
This two-level, all-day brunch eatery in Federal Hill has long been a go-to for me. Often jam-packed on weekends, I’d advise a reservation. (They also cannot accommodate parties larger than six people.) Once you’re lucky enough to snag a table, the culinary quest begins.
While you really can’t go wrong with the offerings here — the cinnamon roll pancakes are legendary — the biscuit sandwiches are their calling card. And they know it. They have a half-dozen options.
My personal favorite is the “Jack and Diane,” which features a fried farm egg (I get mine scrambled), smoked bacon, New York cheddar cheese and strawberry preserves. The sweet-and-salty combination of the preserves mixed with the cheese and bacon had my taste buds doing backflips. ($11.50)
I also have to shout out “The Beast,” which features a crispy fried chicken breast, smoked bacon, American cheese and a fried egg topped with country pork sausage gravy. The hulking sandwich is so popular it has its own hashtag: #eatthebeast ($19.75).
Blacksauce Kitchen
401 W. 29th St., Remington, https://www.blacksaucekitchen.com/
After several instances of inconsistent product — undercooked biscuits — and less-than-ideal, prickly customer service, I put a moratorium on this Baltimore favorite.
But they offer one of the most scrumptious offerings of biscuit sandwiches in the region. They excel in their meat offerings, which are always properly seasoned. The short rib and braised beef options are particular standouts.
If they are on — or open — then you are in luck. If their service and product is off — or they are closed ― it can be a less than savory experience.
Blue Moon Cafe and Blue Moon Too
1621 Aliceanna St., Fells Point; 1024 Light St., Federal Hill https://www.bluemoonbmore.com/
The Fells Point and Federal Hill cafés — which popularized brunch in Baltimore with their Cap’n Crunch French Toast, larger-than-life cinnamon rolls and Sweet Baby Jesus egg dish — can also turn heads with their gigantic biscuit sandwiches.
This is also a create-your-own when you add a choice of meat (bacon, sausage or ham) to a folded scrambled egg and cheese. It’s also served with crispy hash browns for a truly satisfying breakfast option ($10 to $13).
The end result is a yummy, filling sandwich — and probably one of the prettiest I ate — that will have you heading for a food coma.
Don’t forget to ask for a side of their homemade jelly. It’s currently strawberry.
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