We finally know more about what’s happening to the old Cafe Hon in Hampden.
Foreman Wolf is set to open The Duchess this fall. The restaurant will combine “a classic British public house with a Western Pacific-inspired menu,” according to a statement from owner Tony Foreman.
Foreman Wolf purchased the space on Hampden’s West 36th Street in 2022, but the buildout has been long delayed, in part due to Foreman’s health problems. Last year, he underwent a rare double organ transplant. The operation was a success, and Foreman is back at work at the restaurant group he co-founded with his business partner and ex-wife, chef Cindy Wolf.
In the kitchen of The Duchess will be Kiko Fejarang, previously the executive chef of Johnny’s in Roland Park and later sous chef at the Milton Inn. Fejarang, who grew up in Guam in the Mariana Islands, will be cooking up a menu of dishes from her homeland, a cuisine known as Chamorro. The food of the Mariana Islands combines influences from Spain, Japan, Korea, the Philippines and Hawaii.
A menu included with an application for the liquor license lists a number of hot and cold snacks meant for sharing including ahi tuna poke ($25), pork lumpia ($13) and typhoon fries ($15). Entrees include tempura-battered fish ‘n chips ($38) and grilled chicken don buri ($26). Dessert options include boba panna cotta ($11) and shisho lime shaved ice with sake gelee ($14).
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In addition to Johnny’s and the Milton Inn, Fejarang has also worked for Foreman Wolf’s now-defunct Pazo and for celebrity chef Michael Mina’s restaurant group. She studied cooking at the Art Institute of Seattle.
Her food has the approval of Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema, who gave Johnny’s two stars when the eatery was under her leadership. Her “Kiko’s Loco Fried Rice” is a longstanding menu item at the Roland Park restaurant even years after her departure.
The choice of cuisine represents a departure for Foreman Wolf, whose restaurants have represented mostly European and American styles of cooking. It’s also unusual for the company to have an eatery so closely linked with one chef, with Wolf’s Charleston being the notable exception.
“I didn’t write the movie this time. I’m more exec producer,” Foreman said. “I’ve got great stars.”
He called The Duchess a reflection of his trust in Fejarang’s abilities and the deliciousness of her food. “Kiko’s really special,” he said.
Look for an interior decorated by longtime Foreman Wolf collaborators Katie DeStefano with architecture from Brian Thim of Hall & Co.
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