Few things draw me to Pikesville quite like the pull of a great Jewish deli — the lively atmosphere, the old-school charm and, of course, the irresistible promise of a corned beef or pastrami sandwich. The vibe always takes me back to my grandparents’ visits; whenever they came, we made sure to have at least one meal at the deli near my childhood home in New York. When I’m looking for a taste of nostalgia, these Jewish delis in Baltimore County are my first stops.
Lenny’s Deli
- 9107 Reisterstown Road, Owings Mills
Lenny’s Deli has been serving traditional deli fare in Owings Mills since its opening almost 40 years ago. Breakfast is served all day, the deli meats are piled high onto sandwiches, and the pastry case in the back is stocked with all the cookies and cakes you could ever want. I arrived around lunchtime on a recent visit and the line was out the door to order at the counter.
When it was finally my turn, I went with a classic, the Cloak & Dagger — which I ordered overstuffed — a sandwich of rye bread topped with corned beef, Russian dressing and creamy coleslaw. The creamy slaw paired perfectly with the the corned beef, cutting through some of the fattiness, and the Russian dressing provided an ample amount of tang to every bite. I also ordered a side of potato knish, or mashed potato wrapped in pastry dough and then baked until crispy. The life hack here is to cut the knish in half, pull the dough away from the potato and fill the extra space with the meat that falls out of your sandwich.
The Essen Room
- 25 Hooks Lane, Pikesville
The motto of The Essen Room? “Where Size Does Matter.” Staying true to their motto, the Pikesville deli’s sandwiches are massive. In an effort to avoid the lunchtime rush, a friend and I visited for an early dinner; since they close at 6:30 p.m. on some days, we lucked into a mostly empty restaurant. I opted to order my preferred sandwich, pastrami on seedless rye with coleslaw and Russian dressing, with a potato pancake for my side. As I waited for my food, I checked out the pickle bar (free for dine-in customers), which had five varieties; the sweet pickle chips were my favorite.
The overstuffed sandwich was delightful, with just enough Russian dressing and slaw to keep the sandwich moist, but not too much that you lost out on the smokiness from the pastrami. The potato pancake was a little thicker than others I’ve had in the past, but that just means more potato-y flavor. My dining companion, who opted for chicken salad on a challah roll, said The Essen Room used just the right amount of mayo in the chicken salad to strike a balance that was creamy without overpowering the fresh herbs.
Rumor has it The Essen Room’s massive matzo ball is the best in the area, so I’ll certainly be coming back to try that.
The Club Deli and Grill
- 1500 Reisterstown Road #224, Pikesville
The Club is a newer deli in the area offering both deli staples and some fun twists on old classics. The restaurant, which opened in 2023, has a few tables and booths for dine-in customers and also offers carryout. After perusing all the mouthwatering options, I selected the New York Overstuffed sandwich — half a pound of pastrami on toasted bread with club sauce, which tasted similar to honey mustard. The sandwich was served warm and so juicy that I had sauce dripping down my wrists by the time I was finished eating.
While it wasn’t the pastrami of my youth, I did love every bite of it. My dining companion also went with something less traditional for their choice: the brisket dipper. This sandwich was half a pound of smoked brisket served with garlic aioli on toasted ciabatta. Also overstuffed and served with a side of gravy for dunking, this sandwich was an absolute delight, both smoky and juicy in every bite. Just make sure you plan accordingly for a visit: The Club is kosher so they close early on Friday and aren’t open on Saturdays.
Honorable mention
While I had The Knish Shop on my list of places to visit, the Pikesville deli is currently under renovations and operating out of a catering kitchen offering carryout only. (Call-ahead ordering is suggested.) I look forward to heading there at some point to check out the Chanukah sub (fried salami, schnitzel strips and garlic mayo — YUM!) and, of course, a knish. Of the five varieties on their menu, I’m particularly eyeing the spinach version.
Rachel Lipton is a Baltimore-based freelancer and the content creator behind @LikeTheTeaEATS, where she highlights food and finds around the Baltimore region.
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