The first drink I learned how to make was a paper plane, courtesy of my cousin Max Gellman, who worked at a bar in New Orleans.

It’s not a complicated drink: equal parts whiskey, aperol, Nonino Amaro and lemon juice, and yet he had a way of making it look like magic. I won’t say how old I was. But to this day, watching him work on a shaker has cast a level of “cool” over him that’s previously been reserved for people outside the family.

When The Banner requested I put together some ideas for cocktails and mocktails over the holidays, I took it as an opportunity to catch up with a paper plane-drinking expert.

Gellman, who has worked as a bartender for eight years, said bars are increasingly “rockin’ the zero proof cocktail list.” These liquor-less drinks, prepared with the option to add alcohol, are part of a larger movement to make the industry more inclusive, he said, adding: “You shouldn’t have to drink alcohol to sit at the bar.”

What you’re left with as a bartender is a new challenge — nixing classic spirits and liqueurs in favor of fresh ingredients that require a creative eye. Often, it’s a dance of trying to balance out the largely savory tools with the sweet ones — like carrot with turmeric and honey, or herbs with ginger beer.

“It’s a lot harder,” he said of the zero-proof drinks. “Like trying to make tomato sauce without the garlic, salt and oil.”

But lucky for The Banner, my expert came with a roadmap. Don’t worry, the directions are simple enough for any average (or in my case below-average) bartender to give it a whirl.

Cucumber thyme fizz

One of the easiest ways to play with more savory flavors is with cucumber. The mild, yet refreshing taste balances out punchier flavors like lemon and thyme.

To start, my cousin suggested filling a shaker with 1 ounce of cucumber juice, and 3/4 ounces of both lemon and simple syrup. Then toss in a sprig of thyme and some chilled soda to taste — I started with 1 ounce of unsweetened lemon soda and moved my way up to about 1 1/2 ounces. Add some ice. Then shake.

What you’re left with is a pale green liquid bursting with notes of rosemary and lemon. It smells floral without being too sweet — balancing the musk of cucumber with the tang of syrup and soda. It’s a refreshing twist to a holiday mocktail, perfect for clearing the palette.

Alcohol alternative: Add gin

Harvest moon

Hot or cold, this drink is incredible. Think of this mocktail as a punched-up spiced cider, fit with a 1/2 cup of angostura bitters, 3/4 cup of lemon juice and 16 whole cloves.

You start with the cider — about 2 cups worth — then there’s the cinnamon syrup. My cousin broke it down the process for the beginner. Start with 1 cup of simple syrup, which is just sugar and water, get it hot, then add one stick of cinnamon. When you can smell the cinnamon wafting through your home, and the ingredients begin to merge, make sure you blend the mixture and then let it sit for 30 minutes.

Now that you have your syrup, pop it in with the rest of your Harvest Moon ingredients. The result should be a warm mocktail with hints of spice, subtle sweetness and a slightly woody aroma.

Alcohol alternative: Add whiskey

Holiday mule

Let’s say you’re looking for a bit of sweetness after your holiday fare. Maybe you’re eager for a drink that makes you feel the new year is right around the corner. That’s where the holiday mule comes in.

The fresh and fizzy cocktail calls for 4 ounces of Fever Tree Ginger Beer, 1/2 ounce of cranberry juice, then 3/4 ounce of lime juice and cinnamon syrup. It’s easy, quick and pairs well with some maraschino cherries or a cinnamon stick. To temper the sweetness, I’d recommend supplementing with more lime, which should add a zesty flair.

Alcohol alternative: Add vodka or gin

Carrot juice mocktail and spritz

If you’re looking for more veggie-inspired beverages that feel plucked from an autumnal garden, I suggest diving into some carrots.

The sweet and earthy tasting vegetable is capable of adding multiple dimensions to your fall mocktail. A spritz, recommended by Gellman, allows you to lean into a more smooth, vibrant carrot drink.

Pour 3 ounces of carrot juice, 1 ounce of ginger syrup, 3/4 ounces of lemon and a drop of vanilla extract into a shaker. Then for your spritz: Add in about 1 ounce of ginger beer. Gellman prefers Fever Tree brand. Despite having no expertise on the matter, I concur. For a lovely aesthetic, top with either shaved curls of your carrot or some parsley. I added thyme since it was readily available.

But if you’re tired of the spritzes, you can incorporate your carrots into a juice mocktail.

First you need 2 1/2 ounces of carrot juice, which can be made easily by popping two to three carrots in a blender, although it will be a bit earthy. I used Lakewood organic carrot juice since it had a hint of lemon, which excited me. Then pour in 2 ounces of clementine juice, 1/4 ounce of lime juice, and 3/4 ounces of your favorite ginger beer. Shake it all up. If you can find some Thai basil, it makes for the perfect garnish.

Alcohol alternative: Add sake

Sparkling cranberry apple cider

Another mocktail that balances sweetness and acid is the sparkling cranberry apple cider. I was a big fan of this drink for its bubbles and mixture of both lemon and cranberry.

To start, stir two 2 ounces of apple cider with 4 ounces of cranberry juice and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Then add soda water to taste. I, again, used my favorite unsweetened lemon soda. You may ask, though: Is that too much lemon? No. The lemon adds a dimension to what would be an impossibly tart sip, bumping up the flavors in the cider and sharpening the bubbles so they tickle your tongue.

I added a lemon wedge to decorate, but to the sweet-toothed among us, there’s always the opportunity to add sugar along the rim.

Alcohol alternative: Add prosecco or champagne

Blood orange spritz

Sometimes mocktails can be a bit too sweet. It’s tempting to add sugar and syrup as a substitute for the usual punch that comes with a liquor or spirit. But there’s no need for that with this spritz.

Start with a brewed tea. You have many options here: Bartender Gellman has used Tazo passionfruit tea; I used a mix of blood orange and Earl Grey tea. Ultimately, the base should have a tangy bitterness to center the drink. The tea should steep for three to four minutes, then strain and cool before adding with the other ingredients.

About 4 ounces of the tea are mixed in with a sprig of rosemary, 1 1/2 ounces of Fever Tree Yuzu Lime Ginger Beer (a truly incredible flavor worth searching for) and 1 ounce of angostura bitters. This drink has the most vibrant flavor profile with clear notes of orange that blend seamlessly with the rosemary and black tea. The brightness of the yuzu, a yellow citrus fruit, and the lime create a somewhat tart drink that smells almost floral.

Alcohol Alternative: Add tequila